Dutz Designer Scores Big in Competitive Market

By Paddy Kamen

Armand van Lingen was busy playing sports as a young man. Now he is the head designer for Netherland’s-based eyewear company Dutz.

Are football and tennis a good training ground for eyewear designers? Maybe so: they are both competitive sports and the design world is nothing if not competitive. Armand van Lingen thrives on competition and, as a result, Dutz Eyewear is flourishing.

Van Lingen, now 40, graduated from design school in 1997. His first job was with the eyewear companyEurovisie BV, where he worked on the brand You’S. “Thanks to that job, I got to see how to move from concept to actualizing a frame and then a collection,” he explains.

Not one to stand on the sidelines when there is a victory to be won, van Lingen began talking about starting an eyewear company with his good friend Roland Vandermeulen. “I love a challenge,” he says. “So Roland and I decided to strike out on our own with Dutz in 2005.”

Billing Dutz as ‘Holland’s cheekiest brand of glasses’, van Lingen and Vandermeulen (who handles the company’s finances) have worked very hard for the past six years, building the company to the point where their product is sold in 20 countries. “It has been intense,” allows van Lingen. “And though our frames are not yet global, it’s a pretty good start. Our vision is based on a continuous search for unique colour combinations and high quality in the mid-price segment, combined with nice details and a twist of humor. At the same time we put a premium on curiosity, enthusiasm and respect, along with trust for both customers and employees.”

Making things easy for the optical professional is a priority when van Lingen creates his frame designs. And this approach is supported by attention to the administrative side of the business as well. “We do everything we can to make life as easy as possible for the optician and distributor, from super quick delivery to a great warranty,” says van Lingen. “And every optician who deals with Dutz will have the benefit of our wide-ranging collections that change rapidly.”

Alain Lachambre of Audace Lunettes inMontrealhas represented Dutz inCanadasince 2009. “I love that Dutz is a very dynamic company, producing new frame designs all the time,” he says. “The styles are right on trend so our clients can take advantage of market demand.”

The collection targets women with small faces and men who need large frames. Metals with matte finish in retro/vintage styles are complemented by rich-looking textured acetates (12 frames in four colours were recently introduced). Colours may be electric (think pink, grey, orange, red) or more subtle, but always beautiful. Dutz is known for outstanding colour and the metal frames often have a lighter colour inside (electric green, light blue, white), which serves to ‘lift’ and brighten the face. “People love the colour and the richness in the pattern,” notes Lachambre.

Van Lingen finds his life is so full now that he barely has time to play tennis. Married with two growing sons, he has also settled down. Focus is priority number one. “A thriving company like ours requires my maximum attention. When I’ve finished one collection I have to start thinking about the next right away. Having said that, I recognize that I am a lucky man to be able to design and sell my own work. It makes a complete circle and I enjoy it.”

There’s little doubt that van Lingen has scored a touchdown with Dutz.

Perfect Fit

By Brian P. Dunleavy

Optician and educator David Wilson can find a “teachable moment” anywhere. Just ask his aunt.

Watson, a long-time optician and an instructor at the BC College of Optics, welcomed his aunt from out of province just as she was having “some difficulty” with her new progressive lenses. Rather than let her suffer, he decided to use her as an example for his students of what not to do as a professional optician.

“She explained that when she picked up her eyewear, the optician simply gave her the glasses in the case and told her if she had any problems to come back,” Watson recalls. “That was it – no adjustments to the glasses or instructions on how to use them.”

But eyeglasses aren’t that simple anymore, as Watson’s aunt learned the hard way. Today’s lens designs are not “plug-and-play,” to use a term commonly associated with high-tech gadgets, which is exactly what eyeglass lenses have become. With new technology incorporated into designs to help them conform to the unique visual needs of individual wearers, contemporary spectacles lenses offer many new and exciting benefits to wearers – but they can also present new challenges to eyecare professionals in the fitting process.

“Free-form or digital technology in both single-vision and progressives is a wonderful innovation,” notes Steven Levy, owner of LF Optical/LF Warehouse inToronto. “But how effective lenses that use it are for the wearer ultimately comes down to the fit.”

“One of the key messages I tell students is that most progressive non-adapts are usually not patient problems or Rx problems but the dispenser’s problem,” Watson adds. “In other words, a poor or incorrect fit or choice of frame.”

So how can you avoid fitting failures?

Distance relationships
Pupillary distance (PD) remains the most important measurement in lens fitting. Take monocular PDs and use a pupillometer for the most accurate measurement.

Measure up
Ocular centre (OC) and prism reference point (PRP) heights are often overlooked measurements that can make or break a fitting, particularly with free-form progressives, which take multiple measurements into account. “There is much more than just correct PDs in the fitting of progressive lenses and the digitally surfaced lenses of today,” Watson explains.

Take a position
Be sure to measure pantoscopic tilt, fitting height, vertex distance and faceform or frame wrap (the distance the frame “wraps around” the face). Some excellent high-tech devices are available to assist opticians in the collection of these measurements; however, Watson still emphasizes the importance of maintaining a mastery of old-school techniques.

“Know how to take measurements without fancy gadgets,” he says. “Pupillometers and computers break down or are easily put out of calibration. The basics will never let you down. We have a computerized system at the school that takes all the basic measurements. It’s fun to use and the students are always wowed by it. But every good optician I know can measure two or three patients in the same time it takes to use the computer system.”

Make adjustments
Once the patient selects their frame, adjust it before taking any measurements and note its “base curve” (the curve of the eyewire). Again, this is particularly important with free-form progressives. “I was talking to a lab manager at one of the largest labs in Canada and we agreed that this is an industry problem,” notes Watson. “Most non-adapts to progressives come down to the adjustment of the frame.”

Just like Watson’s aunt. How did things turn out for her?

“In class, I helped the students analyze her difficulties and solve the problem. First we inked up the glasses, adjusted them for her head, gave her some more faceform and pantoscopic tilt. She said it was like we replaced her lenses with something better! Her vision also improved two lines on the Snellen chart.”

How fitting.

WestGroupe’s Future in Good Hands as it Celebrates its First Half-Century

ByJoAnne Sommers

When Rodney Adam Suliteanu founded a frame distribution company in Montrealin 1961, he didn’t realize that he was laying the groundwork for an international optical powerhouse. But half a century later, WestGroupe is celebrating its 50th anniversary as a recognized industry leader with a presence in 47 countries and hopes of expanding into others.

Rodney’s original business plan entailed importing and distributing frames to local opticians and optometrists. Today, in addition to bringing licensed international brands to the Canadian marketplace, the company has a large export business and Rodney’s children – Beverly and Michael – are advancing his vision of being at the forefront of the international eyewear sector.

Although Michael often helped his father with “grunt work” as a young child – assembling catalogue binders and sweeping floors at the office on weekends – he didn’t seriously consider joining WestGroupe until he was a student a tToronto’s York University, where he completed his BA in economics.

“I wanted to carve out something for myself until a friend pointed out that it’s more difficult to take over a family business than to start one from scratch. He was right – it is harder. But it’s been worth because I have been able to put my own imprint on the company while maintaining the principles on which my father built his business.”

In 1991, Michael began training in the lab and later went on the road selling eyewear. He also completed the optician program at Barrie’s Georgian College.

Beverly Suliteanu joined the WestGroupe team in 1994, after receiving her MBA from Queen’s University and working in marketing in the pharmaceutical industry. Today she is creative director and vice president of product development, while Michael is company president. Rodney, now 76, serves as chairman of the board.

“We’re successful because Bev and I respect the company’s history and dad respects our vision for the future,” Michael says. “He is our confidant and knows everything the company is doing. And the three of us make all important business decisions collegially.”

Nonetheless, there are clear areas of responsibility:Beverlyis in charge of creative design and product execution, while Michael runs the office, oversees sales and generally moves the business forward. The model works well, says Michael, “because our roles are very different and we respect one another’s opinions. We don’t hold decisions against one another and never say, ‘I told you so.’ When we make a mistake we learn from it and move on.”

WestGroupe’s family environment – which is one of its core values – extends to its employees – 60 of whom work at the Montreal corporate headquarters and 22 sales representatives who are scattered across the country.

“They’re our life force, our hands and feet in the marketplace,” Michael says. “Many of our employees have been with the company for years, which I think speaks volumes about us. We need the corporate systems for the sake of efficiency but our business has always been about people, not numbers.”

Another key to WestGroupe’s success is its long-standing, close-knit relationships with customers and their international distributors.

“Dad taught us to be honest and ethical at all times and to do the right thing for those we work with,” says Michael. “For us, it’s less about doing a high volume of business than it is about doing business the right way.”

Interestingly, says Michael, Rodney Suliteanu didn’t sign contracts with his customers or vendors. “His mantra was, ‘All you have is your word,’ and he sealed every business deal with a handshake.”

The heart of WestGroupe’s business is its product. “At the end of the day if the product quality is poor or it doesn’t sell you have nothing,” Michael notes.

Westgroupe has two divisions: Western and Wescan. Western’s brand portfolio includes in-house designed brands such as Superflex, Bertelli, Levi’s and Izumi, as well as distributed designer brands including Perry Ellis and Elizabeth Arden. The Wescan division has developed several distinctive and highly successful eyewear brands of its own, including Fysh UK, Kliik denmark and Evatik.

“We’re very proud of the fact that our proprietary brands are distributed in 47 countries and we’re looking forward to moving into the next 40 countries,” Michael says. “The brands we’ve created are becoming household optical names outside Canada: in the U.S.we work with two distributors and over 70 sales people now carry our brands, while worldwide we have approximately 165 salespeople who sell our brands in over 12,000 optical doors.”

But despite their growth plans, he says, WestGroupe never loses touch with its roots. “We invest in reaching consumers and eyecare professionals around the world and bring home what we learn there. The main lesson is the importance of marketing. Optical shops and optometrists are the same world over – they all need frames that sell and we want them to sell our frames.”

To celebrate its 50th anniversary, WestGroupe moved into a new 34,000 square foot facility earlier this year. It boasts state-of-the art technology and offers a wide array of on-site products and services.

As to the future, Michael has 15-year-old twin daughters who may become involved with the company at some point. “The business is there for them if they want it but I won’t push them just like my dad never pushed me. It’s their decision.”

Whatever happens in the future, Michael Suliteanu considers himself a fortunate man. “I love my work and I think our employees love their jobs, too. I wake up happy every morning because each day is a new and exciting challenge.”

Vision Science and the Possible Human

By Paddy Kamen

After spending two days at a workshop with Dr. Lester Fehmi learning how to relax and broaden my attentional capacity, I had a startling experience with my eyesight. I was lying in bed in my darkened hotel room listening to tunes on my laptop. It was time to change the selection, so I turned on the light, sat up and looked at the screen without putting on my eyeglasses. The letters were blurry but then they came into focus as if I used a pair of binoculars! This had never happened before.

The following day I mentioned my experience to Fehmi, originator of the Open Focus method of attentional training. While his training system has nothing to do with vision training, per se, he said other system users have also experienced significant vision improvement.

Open Focus trains the brain to broaden awareness or focus by fostering increased alpha wave synchrony across the lobes of the brain. This gives rise to an experience of being relaxed yet alert. This article is not about Open Focus (you can learn more about it at: www.openfocus.com) but about the possibility of improving vision via unconventional means. It was inspired by Sight and Sensibility: The Ecophyschology of Perception by Laura Sewall, Ph.D.

It is a truism that the scientific method is based on observation, experimentation and repeated verification of results. It is also true that scientists are wrong much of the time, that they have persisted in beliefs that belie the facts before them (e.g. the belief that the brain cannot reorganize itself – plasticity – in response to experience), and that they are often not open to exploring the unexplainable, unexpected and unusual. Like people in other walks of life, scientists are sometimes more interested in maintaining the status quo than in discovering the full range of the possible.

Laura Sewall is a vision scientist, who came to the study of vision partly as a result of experiencing a profound vision improvement via an unorthodox method. Having worn glasses for nearsightedness since her late teens, Sewall grew frustrated with the limitations her myopia imposed and began to study the Bates Method of Vision Improvement. She soon noticed occasional but significant improvement in her vision — “I suddenly glimpsed sharp, razor-like edges and neon colours… I could not believe my eyes…soon fabulous shapes and brilliant colours signaled to me, edges were sharp all the time…”

One aspect of the Bates theory is that the eye needs to learn to relax and not pull objects to it, instead focusing both far and near, alternately, by performing specific exercises. Some of Bates’ theories have been disproven, but what if this pioneer was actually on to something?

Later, Sewall traveled to Tanzania to study baboons in their natural habitat. There, she was further awakened to the possibilities inherent in the human visual system. She was amazed that her research partner, a Tanzanian scientist with years of experience on the savanna, could identify individual baboons from amongst three troops of 120, half a mile away.

By the time she got to Brown University’s graduate school, Sewall had stopped doing most of the Bates exercises and gradually lost her superior visual acuity, because of too much computer work and reading. She writes: “Despite the loss of my clear and inspired vision, I continued my research. I read between the lines, asked many questions in carefully controlled labs and pieced together a developing story: the neural structure of the visual system changes when the attentional processes in the brain are activated. It was assumed by researchers that this… occurred only during particular developmental stages in young animals. Among visual scientists, the discussion of such fundamental change in the visual capacity of adult animals was apparently heretical. Questions posed in research seminars about structural changes in the adult visual system — questions that implied visual potential — were met with quick glances around the table and unsatisfying answers.”

Sewall’s search of the scientific literature showed there were unanalyzed and unpublished data on structural changes in the visual cortex of animals that went well beyond the developmental stages. She became suspicious of scientific methods that ignored the outstanding in favour of the norm. “I learned that this kind of oversight is one of the classic limitations of Western scientific methodology. Like lies of omission, science names truth without reminding us that there is more to be revealed… Why, I wondered, did our research tradition focus on norms at the expense of identifying the great potential inherent in having… an exquisitely tuned human body?”

By participating as a subject in vision experiments on the absolute threshold (measurements of the capacities of the visual system), Sewall noted that she would dimly see lights that would be categorized by the researchers as ‘not seen’, and that she would produce different results, indicating different levels of visual sensitivity depending on, “whether I’d had a cup of coffee before the experiment or too little sleep the night before. I also knew… that my overall visual sensitivity was noticeably greater after meditating… I began to realize that the absolute threshold for perception is relative.” She also learned that the definition of ‘normal’ or 20/20 vision defined by the Snellen eye chart was hardly a scientific measure. “I knew Snellen’s story: he had established the standard for acuity by calling his assistant, who apparently had good vision, to the chart one day to measure what he could see from 20 feet away. And so it was that normal became normal.”

Sewall’s perception of the difference in her visual acuity after meditation practice makes for a fascinating footnote in her book. “Theoretically, when the ‘noise’ – or spontaneous firings in the visual system – is temporarily quieted by meditating, the signal is rendered relatively more salient and is therefore more easily seen. This interpretation of the visual effects of meditation is derived from signal detection theory.”

The above theory and Sewall’s personal experience fit well with both Bates’ concept of the need for the eye to relax and stop reaching for objects, and Fehmi’s theories about why Open Focus (which is actually a type of meditation practice) might have been so effective in at least temporarily improving my eyesight on that one occasion. Could it be that when we let go, broaden our focus and let the mind quiet, the brain can do the job of helping our eyes see more easily? Is it possible that with training, we can become better at this and experience revived and enhanced sensory experience on many levels, not just vision?

We know that Bates was not right about everything (a future article will explain his contributions to science and his errors). But isn’t it wonderful that he dared to pay attention to the actual experience of his patients and to try new methods to help them see better? Isn’t it marvelous thatLaura Sewall has the personal confidence and intellect to pay attention to her own experience, honour it and let others know more about what our potential might be? Our world is improved by those who challenge the status quo by paying attention to the world around them, as it is, unencumbered by the visual and metaphorical cloud of received wisdom.

Laura Sewall’s book opens (and this article ends) with a quote from Søren Kierkegaard:

“If I were to wish for anything, I should not wish for wealth and power, but for the passionate sense of the potential, for the eye which, ever young and ardent, sees the possible.”

Property Insurance: Are You Covered?

By JoAnne Sommers

Insurance isn’t necessary… until you need it. And then it may be too late.

Small business owners wear many hats: visionary, service provider, marketer, administrator and financial manager, to name a few. And in the midst of juggling all those responsibilities it’s easy to overlook the details of property insurance coverage. Easy but potentially dangerous.

“Few people take the time to analyze their property insurance policies in detail,” says Adrian Mastracci, portfolio manager with KCM Wealth Management Inc. in Vancouver. “But you don’t want to be underinsured, whether you own or rent. That’s why it’s important to be proactive and conduct risk management assessments for your property needs.”

Property insurance can be purchased on the basis of “replacement cost” or “actual cash value”. Replacement cost is the amount it would take to replace or rebuild your business, or the damaged part of it, with materials of like kind and quality, without deducting anything for depreciation. Actual cash value is the amount it would take to repair or replace the damaged or stolen property after deducting for depreciation.

Small business people often make the mistake of not getting replacement cost insurance, says Laurie Gottenbos, commercial insurance agent with Johnston Meier Insurance Agencies Group in Kelowna.

“Even though it costs more, always insure for the replacement cost of equipment and fixtures,” she advises. “But remember that stock is always valued at actual cash value, which means you get what you paid for it minus the depreciation.”

Gottenbos says that because every business is different, it is up to the owner to estimate the cost of replacing the business premises (if owned), any improvements you’ve made (if leased), plus inventories, equipment and other materials, and insure accordingly.

“Look at your receipts for major purchases and talk to your accountant about what it would cost to replace everything,” she advises.

Liability Protection

A lawsuit could mean a catastrophic loss to your business, so be sure to carry enough liability insurance to protect yourself in the event of injury, death or property damage caused by your products, business operations or employees.

Think of liability insurance as a safety net that protects your financial assets, says Mastracci. “Start with the third-party liability needs for each of your business locations. A minimum of $1 million coverage is a start, although coverage in the $2-to-$5-million range may be more appropriate.”

The maximum third-party liability coverage on most policies is $2 million, he notes. However, an umbrella liability policy can provide protection over and above the limits of commercial general liability and commercial automobile policies. To decide whether you need an umbrella policy, think of the most extreme situation that could happen in your business and determine whether your current liability policies would cover this risk.

Other Coverages

Depending on the size of your business and the nature of your operations, there are other coverages that you should consider.

A business interruption rider covers loss of earnings as a result of damage to or destruction of property. This coverage generally provides reimbursement for salaries, taxes, rents, and other expenses, plus net profits that would have been earned during the period of interruption, up to the limits of the policy.

“We recommend that business owners insure for loss of income in the event that premises are temporarily unusable due to fire or some other disaster,” says Gottenbos. “Insurers provide forms that can be used to estimate how much of a company’s profits and salaries will be lost until the business is up and running again.”

If you lease or rent your place of business, you may require tenant liability insurance in the event of fire, explosion, water leaks and other mishaps, she adds. “If, as a tenant, you are held responsible for a loss, even an accidental one, the landlord’s insurance company may go back to you to recover their losses so you should consider protection to cover that. The limits are usually $500,000 for a standard small policy.”

Coverages may be purchased to cover your stock and fixtures in the event of burglary and robbery, to protect money and securities, or to protect against counterfeit currency or employee dishonesty.

Exclusions and Expenses

Make sure you understand the exclusions in your policy. For starters, investigate whether damage from broken pipes or sewer backup is covered.

Most companies also have a rider for earthquake and flood coverage. Your location and the probability of occurrence determine the premium and availability.

The Bottom Line

Make a real effort to understand your property risks and review your insurance coverage needs annually, says Mastracci.

“Having a long chat with one or more property insurance agents is time well spent. Remember that protecting your business from a financial disaster deserves your full attention.”

I Can Sing

By James W. Ahola, B.A.Sc.

As a young child I was invited to attend a summer music camp. Because I didn’t know anything about music, I was placed in the junior choir. I thought, “Great, everyone can sing.” Then the instructor blew a note on his pitch pipe and asked each of us to repeat it. For some kids, including me, he needed to do it several times. He then arranged us as a choir with specific seating assignments and gave us the words and music to learn for homework.

The next day I returned eager to sing. As the music started I belted out the notes. The instructor stopped us and asked certain choir members to echo the pitch pipe. In my case, he repeated it several times. I thought I sounded fine.

We began again and I opened my mouth, singing with my whole heart. “This is fun,” I thought to myself. It felt liberating to sing – as though my heart was soaring like a bird. But the experience was short-lived because he stopped us again and started singling out certain choir members. When he reached me he leaned in and whispered in my ear: “You can’t sing, you’re throwing other people off. Just mouth the words.” Then the piano started again and the choir chimed in.

Fighting back tears, his words echoed in my head: “You can’t sing”…you throw other people off”. I was crushed. I didn’t sing again all week. At the concert, I tried to mouth the words in unison with the others so I wouldn’t embarrass my parents but I dared not make a sound. I didn’t sing in the months and years to come, either – not the national anthem at school or Christmas carols with my family.

I continued with music, though, and learned to play brass instruments, including the cornet, flugelhorn and trumpet, ending up as the first chair trumpet in the high school jazz band.

After that I attended another music camp, which included a choir. Our instructor was renowned for having the province’s best school choir and claimed that everyone in his community could sing. My buddy and I, however, were convinced we were the exceptions.

On our first try the sound of the group was poor. While everyone could play the notes beautifully on their instruments many stumbled as choir members. The instructor stopped and gave us about 15 minutes of instruction, talking about resonance, its importance to all instruments, and its application to voice. He then showed us how to create resonance so we could feel and experience it for ourselves.

When, after a few minutes, he asked us to repeat the note, I couldn’t believe my ears. I could sing!  My friend and I looked at each other in disbelief. During the rest of that week, I never stopped singing. The part of me that had felt caged was free. Never again would I be silent.

Since then I have been asked to sing before various groups but for the most part I sing for myself, relishing the freedom and joy I find in this means of expression.

Perhaps you long for freedom in a chosen field but keep falling when you should be flying. It doesn’t mean that you were never meant to fly. All it means is you don’t yet know how. To everything – whether it’s sales, relationships, engineering or business – there is a structure. To discover that structure, learn the nuances and details and before you know it your heart will begin to take flight.

Engaging Employees

By Dana Sacco

As you watch sales unfold, do you see opportunities your staff is missing? Perhaps it‘s an upgrade to high index or a digital lens design. Do they forget to recommend photochromic lenses or offer a cheaper frame, assuming the patient isn’t willing to pay more? It often seems the process could be handled better, leading to a more desirable outcome. But why?

Engagement
According to Wikipedia, an “engaged employee” is fully involved in and enthusiastic about their work, and acts in ways that further their organization’s interests. The Kenexa High Performance Institute defines engagement as the extent to which employees are motivated to contribute to organizational success and are willing to apply discretionary effort to accomplishing tasks important to the achievement of organizational goals.

If your staff is not engaged, they are literally going through the motions. This doesn’t necessarily mean they are negligent; they are simply not invested in making the sale. So how can you motivate staff to work more effectively?

It would be great if it was a matter of increasing salaries. But studies show that pay is actually quite low on the priority list for most employees. Location, status, job security and length of work week all rank ahead of it. Remuneration in human resource terminology is considered a housekeeping item. And HR psychologists theorize that as long as such factors are within industry standards, they do not impact engagement.

Ineffective leadership is perhaps the top reason why employees suffer from disengagement. And often the first place to look is in the mirror. Self-aware leaders who understand their own strengths and weaknesses and develop a communication strategy that maximizes their personality have the greatest success in motivating their teams.

Value
Employees who are valued perform better. A thank-you is always nice. Positive reinforcement provides an opportunity to offer feedback and improve trust with employees. Note the language you use with your team. If a client wasn’t offered photochromic lenses, it would be easy to point that out. A more constructive approach is to ask what products were included in the sale.

Example:

Practice Leader: John, I noticed you sold Mr. Smith a new pair of glasses. What product selection did he choose?

Dispenser: He bought an acetate frame, progressive lenses and an anti-reflective coating.

Practice Leader: Great! He’ll be happy with the quality of those products. If you had an opportunity to work with Mr. Smith again, would you have done anything differently?

Dispenser: I probably would have asked if he wanted photochromic lenses. He had it last time but I forgot to ask. I’ll call and see if I can upgrade the sale.

When the employee is engaged in problem solving he feels valued. Engagement is contagious and it only takes a little to make an impact.

Ownership
Many people in the eye care field are highly detail-oriented. It’s the nature of the job. Unfortunately, such people are much less likely to delegate (I’m not talking about core functions here). If you combine detail orientation with a strong sense of authority, you get a micro-manager who doesn’t delegate – especially authority. It’s easy to see how this can be problematic in a team environment. Transformational leadership is a concept in which the leader is not a doer. He or she coaches, mentors and inspires employees. That way the leader can maximize engagement and improve productivity, ultimately increasing EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization – in effect gross profit.)

Transformational leaders know they will earn more if all employees feel a sense of ownership in the jobs. How can you create such an environment? Job design is a key step. By dissecting job descriptions collaboratively, employees participate in designing their roles. This is key to overall organizational effectiveness. In a small- to medium-sized optometric practice, which may have 15 individual contributors, it’s wise for the practice leader to create an organizational map to help understand the corporation’s character. By looking at it objectively, you can remove “filters” that cloud your judgment in making decisions, such as unresolved conflicts.

The use of behavioural assessments such as the Predictive Index® creates an opportunity to look at the practice from a scientific perspective. This is a quick, effective way to find key coaching and development opportunities and customize them to each employee.

Job design is essential. The transformational leader understands how to coach the employee’s skills that fit the job, recognize the gaps in performance by investing in their development and most importantly how to help people become the best possible versions of themselves. If the leader is invested in helping employees bring their “A” game to work, the result is usually a lift in morale, productivity and ultimately profit.

Men’s Frames: Who’s Zoomin’ Who?

By Paddy Kamen

As we move into 2012, the men’s eyewear market is hot and getting hotter.

What do men want in eyewear? While it’s true that some men still want to blend into the woodwork, a growing segment of this market actually wants to use frames as a signal of distinction, if not panache. Amin Mamdani, buyer and vice president of Josephson Opticians in Toronto, has noticed that men expect more from their eyewear.

“Men collect watches, shoes and hats but they don’t accessorize with the face, so frames are ideal for them. Being men, they still look for functionality, which is a plus because the same form will not necessarily fit different functions. For example, the urban look for weekdays won’t suit weekend cottage activities. And this is especially true for sunwear: rollerblading and sailing require different sun frames and this presents an opportunity to the optical retailer.”

Mamdani sees a slow but sure increase in the number of men who consciously chose their eyewear to make a statement. “I’d say it’s close to 50 per cent now, compared with over five years ago when it was about 30 per cent.”

Michael Bohbot, president of Bo Optik, agrees. “Men today are very different and much more diverse than they were a generation ago. Men represent half the population but often have far less choice in frames than women. This was due to a lack of product and a bias towards men being boring. Now men are catching up to women in terms of spending on fashion, be it in clothing or eyewear. They have always spent on watches and suits, but now they want better choices for eyewear and more distinctiveness and diversity. If you don’t have a great selection, you may be missing out on selling multiple frames to a significant market. 

Nada Vuksic is an optician and proprietor of Bruce Eyewear in Vancouver’s trendy Gastown district. She finds men more willing to purchase multiple frames for different lifestyle needs and in order to prepare for that, she works hard to have a wide variety of frames available. “We have an equal opportunity shop for men and women, which means we have to back that up with a wide range of product for both genders. As a woman, I easily know what I like for my female customers. But at the end of the day I have to exert more effort in making an amazing selection for men. I spend more time and care when selecting for men when I’m at a trade show or with sales reps.”

Several companies have launched men-only collections — including Wescan, Tura, Bo Optik, Alternative Eyewear, Plan B and Optiq. Others are speaking to men with distinctive stylings within collections that also address the needs of women. But how different are the needs of men and women? Mehran Baghaie, designer for Spectacle Eyeworks, created a collection for men and daringly offered them in pink! “They sold out very quickly,” he notes, explaining that “women are wearing very large men’s frames but they want them in beautiful colours they can relate to: wine, red, pink. This blurring of the gender edges gives my retro line wide appeal, although ironically, they were originally designed 100 per cent for men.”

Mamdani’s opinion is that gender differences in frame design are indeed widening. “For women I am definitely seeing more of the cat eye and upsweep as the biggest trend. Women frames will be much more feminine, while men’s frames are becoming squared or very round.”

Vuksic agrees. “I’m seeing more gender-specific styling. While it is true that women can wear men’s clothing and even eyeglass frames, I find them happy to have more feminine options.”

Bo Optik is one company that has responded to the market with a strong showing of brands just for men.

“Since the fall of 2011, we have launched KHI Eyewear, Lunettes L’AMY and Penguin to complement Jhane Barnes and Safari. These five lines give us the broad range required to satisfy both dispensers and consumers,” says Michael Bohbot. “Penguin is our newest launch and has a very retro look that fashion-forward men crave. Lunettes L’AMY has the French European flair and style. KHI Eyewear is for the entry-level professional, Jhane Barnes is our high-end product offering, and Safari has been our go-to product for the large man since 2001. Each of these brands is strictly for men, with the exception of L’AMY.”

Jhane Barnes and Penguin are brands heavily involved in clothing. The other three are optical only. “All are built on excellence in quality and design and with 75 styles over 400 SKUs (stock keeping units) across the spectrum, we are positioned to satisfy this important market that represents a big percentage of frame revenues,” says Bohbot.

Spectacle Eyeworks’ Mehran Baghaie has created a stunning collection of acetates in retro styles for men. In addition to the bold, feminine colours previously mentioned, Baghaie explains that most of this collection is offered in beautifully subtle, natural colours that are very tactile, just begging to be touched.

While still offering a pure wood collection, Baghaie’s new pieces look and feel like wood, “which opens a new avenue for everyone,” he explains. “They have a grainy, natural look, with a rough polish. The green one looks like horn and the brown model looks like wood. I wanted to continue with very clean retro shapes.”

Baghaie has named the pieces after his two sons, Thomas and Shayan, in addition to one with his own first name, Mehran. The family grouping is complemented by Penn, after his favourite actor, Sean Penn. “We’ve made Sean Penn part of the family,” he quips. Banking on retro to stick around for another four to five years, Baghaie’s approach is to take the genre sideways. “Retro is very specific. These new styles are definitely in the genre but have their own distinct character,” he notes.

Mizyake Couture offers men an opportunity to make a fashion statement with expressive designs that aren’t outrageous, says Richard Allen, vice president of sales for distributor Optika Eyewear. “Men are very focused on quality when selecting frames and Mizyake has superior quality in hinges, plating and materials. They’re made of super-lightweight stainless steel for comfort and durability in high-end designs.”

Allen notes that the Mizyake Couture collection appeals to all age groups. “We offer bold acetates for the younger market, along with frames that give excellent lens depth for progressive wearers.”

J.F. Rey has always spoken strongly to the men’s market, especially those men who favour an emphasis on technical and design elements. Two techno collections, Fibres and Airnet, are the latest word from this renowned manufacturer.

The Fibres collection found the design team turning fiberglass and carbon into an elegant weave. “Featherweight, industrial and elegant,” are perfect descriptors for this subtle collection, where industrial design is reinforced by muted colours in tobacco, navy blue and silver. The frames are definitely masculine.  

Airnet is the first J.F. Rey collection to use ultra-thin stainless steel, providing outstanding lightness. Tiny holes on the temples bring integration with the wearer’s skin tone.

J.F. Rey models JF 2410, JF 1217, and JF 1213 are Canadian bestsellers, available at J.F. Rey Eyewear Canada.

Paul Storace, president of Alternative Eyewear and Plan B has two collections for men: one a conservative, football-themed collection, Gridiron, and the other an edgy, metrosexual collection, Headlines™. “Headlines represents the very wearable side of edgy, for men from their mid-20s up to middle age and up.  The older guy who knows he is still young will choose this brand, which is a mix of really cool plastics along with pure titanium. This collection speaks to a sweet spot in the marketplace because it is definitely not slumming for the man who buys high-end, while the quality is there for the young man who wants to look like a million bucks,” notes Storace. “Plus we have eye sizes deep enough for progressives.”

The Gridiron collection suits the older gentleman who needs a larger fit (with 58-60 eye sizes) in a high-quality frame priced in the low-mid range. “Everyone needs a 58 eye size titanium semi-rimless on the boards,” notes Storace. “This collection offers many solutions to fitting problems and for those who are allergic to nickel. When comfort, fit and price take precedence over fashion, Gridiron is there and does extremely well.”

You may remember Parasite as the company that, a few years back, launched strange-looking futuristic frames with temples that cling to the side of the head. Parasite continues to lead in a ‘techno-organic spirit’, with cyber-punk frames known as Sidero. While still uber-cool, Sidero will appeal to a wider audience, with new models featuring a glossy polyamide front and metal temples. These elegant and edgy frames for men come in sophisticated colour blends and will soon be available with bored lens mountings.

Eyecare professionals will be pleased to know that hard-to-fit men are wellserved by the Michael Ryen collection from Cenoco. With a wide range of sizes, the collection offers plenty of choice in both trend-setting and traditional styles. Each frame is made of quality materials, including titanium and Mazzucchelli acetate fromItaly. Spring hinges ensure comfort. MR-176 boasts a square Mazzucchelli acetate front with the trendy geek look now so popular with men, while MR-171 sports a laser-cut, semi-rimless front. A small section of the temple is bent over the hinge and inset with openwork chrome metal, which serves to lighten the look on the face.

Prisme Optical Group offers some of the most stylish brands – Orgreen, Cogan, Façonnable – with strong styles for men. They also represent Bellinger, the Danish tour de force, led by the husband and wife design team, Claus and Malene Bellinger Diederichsen. Within the Bellinger collections is Blac, said to be the first frames made totally of carbon fibre. This collection is specifically for men. The design element is very strong, uber-masculine and fascinatingly sophisticated. A must-see.

Designed in Switzerland by optical professionals, the Götti collection offers strong masculine models within a mixed-gender collection. “The design of Götti glasses always has a harmonic and coherent look,” says design director Thomas Frischknecht. “We dispense with fancy details while maintaining distinctive accents on each frame, which makes it an unmistakable Götti. All models are extremely wearable,” he adds.

The two-man Götti operation that began in Switzerlandin 1993 has grown into a company of 48 employees with an American presence in Winter Park, FL. Product is available at high-end optical shops in 37 countries. Götti SWITZERLAND won a 2012 iF product design award (a Danish award established in 1953) for its Fons sunglass style.

Henry Jullien launched Equinoxe at Mido 2011, marking the arrival of the first model in the collection known as Les Urbaines. This acetate and metal frame for younger men is designed and manufactured completely in the Jura region ofFrance, where Henry Jullien has been making fine eyewear for over 90 years. A second collection, Les Signatures speaks to the impressive history of the brand. Here, gold-filled frames in classic styles are made with the finest materials.

Joe Nadler, president of Optik Frames, offers the bold and contemporary Respec Collection to men with a self-assured fashion sense. “These are men who care about their appearance and understand that eyewear is a statement of one’s personality and style,” notes Nadler. “I see men’s eyewear evolving as men become more aware of fashion trends and consciously turn to eyewear as an accessory that will enhance their image. This the perfect time to present the Respec collection, with styles that will appeal to men from 25 and up.”

The Eyefunc collection from Optique Levy features 40 different models for men. PresidentGeorges Levy describes his collection as, “fierce, edgy and hot.” These are manly shapes with trendy urban temples and funky styling, as the name suggests. EF276 is a current bestseller, as is EF307P. “The colours have really helped to make this collection a big success,” says Levy.

Also look for elegant men’s frames in the Borsalino collection, which is just now being introduced toNorth Americaby Levy. “There are 20 men’s styles in this luxurious line, handmade inItalywith 100 per cent Italian material,” says Levy. “Each frame has its own serial number.”

Optik Innovision brings some striking designs forward for the fashion-conscious man. Allegro Plus 4139 has a retro vibe, mixing new with older elements to great effect in acetate and metal. Allegro Plus 7063, with angular cut-outs on the temple, gives an edgy masculine look in four colour combinations. And half-eye frames such as Allegro 5318 convey a confident charm in a rectangular shape with subtle temple designs.

While also carrying the German-designed TITANflex for the upscale male shopper, Tura has a 20-year history with one of the first memory metal products: TuraFlex. James Ahola, sales manager forCanada, says, “The lightweight titanium alloy with its unique flexible properties struck a chord with the typical male buyer. And while the memory metal offers great advantages it also has some inherent design limitations, the main one being that it does not allow for great detail work or embellishments as desired in typical feminine frames. Because of this TuraFlex quickly evolved into a strictly men’s line for the average male who could not care less for embellishments or funky colours.”

Two best-selling TuraFlex models are M861 and M868. These are both generous frames with a comfortable vertical measurement. The M868 is a lightweight  semi-rimless with simple design cues of rolled metal. The M861 is a heavier frame with wider temples and a pinstripe design cue. “These sell well because they are lightweight, have some style without being over the top, and are affordable,” notes Ahola.

Le Groupe Optique Plus fromHolland brings the De Stijl collection across the pond with great aplomb. These are architectural pieces inspired by the aviation industry and made without screws or welded hinges. Stainless steel is the material of choice for all metal components and comfort is taken for granted. Extremely durable colours are an outcome of the manufacturing technology and four colours are offered on each of 11 models for men.

Look no further than Scandinavian Eyewear for men’s frames with a rich tradition of craftsmanship blended with materials and technology that are very on-trend. Skaga is the brand and Skaga Originals, designed by Sighsten Herrgård, are attracting a lot of attention. Models for early 2012 are inspired by glowing skies and crystal formations. “We have been making men’s styles in the Skaga collection since 1948 and release 48 new styles every year,” says Nils Fredriksson, sales manager forNorth America.

Wescan Optical is releasing Evatik Sunwear this February as an encore to their highly successful Evatik ophthalmic collection for the stylish urban male. Eighteen models in stainless steel and acetate feature diverse eye shapes from rectangular to aviator and beyond. “Masculine elegance” is a term used to describe this collection, which is inspired by both fashion and performance. “Men’s eyewear can traditionally be divided into two distinct categories: fashion and technical,” explains Beverly Suliteanu, creative director and vice president of product development. “By marrying cutting-edge technology with fashion-forward styling, Evatik Sunwear defies convention and offers today’s urban male the ultimate accessory to express and enhance his personal style.”

Swiss fashion design house Strellson comes to Canadian men via Mark Altow and optician Karen Tarshis. Strellson Eyewear Canada brings this Euro-style optical and sunglass collection forward, presenting warm masculine colours in the finest metals and high-end acetates. Real wood components are found in the patented ‘switch it inside’ segment. “The products have a cool, modern, retro “60”s vibe yet stay grounded in Strellson’s overall Euro look and feel,” says Altow. “The eyewear is a natural extension of the Strellson brand and we’re very excited to bring it to Canadian retailers.” 

Are today’s men getting what they want in eyeglass frames? Are more of them confident enough to let their frames do the talking? Let’s see how they see themselves in the new frame offerings for 2012.

Making the Most of Low Vision

By JoAnne Sommers

Living with vision loss can be very isolating, particularly for older people, who make up the largest part of the low vision population. Not only are they unable to drive but many once-enjoyable activities, such as reading and TV viewing, are closed to them. But thanks to advances in the field of assistive technology, a host of devices is available that enable such people to perform tasks that would otherwise be much more difficult – if not impossible – to accomplish.

“People with low vision can now live with greater independence than ever before because of helpful devices such as video magnifiers, audio book players and CCTVs (closed circuit TVs),” says Dawn Pickering, Toronto-based professional practice leader for Low Vision Services with CNIB.

Timothy Gels, marketing manager for Eschenbach Optik ofAmerica, agrees, noting that people with vision impairment are often subject to mishaps, including misreading prescription labels and falling. “Low vision devices are proven to work and are an excellent complement to any surgical or pharmacological treatments given.”

Unlike someone with a hearing impairment, people with vision problems often require several different devices, adds Gels. “It’s like a carpenter with a toolbox. People usually require three to five devices, depending on their diagnosis.”

And because everyone sees differently, the technology has to be tried to ensure it meets the user’s needs. “The only way to find out is to work with it to determine whether it allows you to do what you want it to,” Gels notes.

InCanada, low vision assessments are available through CNIB and facilities such as the Low Vision Clinic at the Centre for Sight Enhancement, University of Waterloo.

“We start by determining the person’s goals and objectives and get an understanding of their current visual functioning to help them maximize their existing vision,” says clinic Head Ann Plotkin. “Then we show them the devices we have available to determine what works best for them.”

Plotkin says the clinic loans out stock devices so people can try them before making a purchase. That’s welcome, given the fact that devices such as custom glasses with a spectacle-mounted telescope cost between $1,200 and $2,000, while CCTVs run $2,500 or more. (Although older, reconditioned systems are sometimes available for as little as $150.)

In some provinces funding is available to help defray the cost of assistive devices; however, there are significant differences between jurisdictions. In Ontario, CCTVs are available on a lease-to-own basis, says Plotkin. “The government, through the Assistive Devices Program (ADP), pays three-quarters of the cost and you pay the balance over the course of a five-year lease. If your vision changes during that time or you die, the CCTV can be returned for a prorated refund. Otherwise you own it after five years.”

Plotkin says the ADP, which covers 50 to 75 per cent of the cost of low vision aids, is the best program of its kind inCanada. Other provinces, including Quebec, British Columbia and Alberta, also offer financial assistance; however, people in the Atlantic provinces, which have no assistance programs, sometimes go without devices they need because they can’t afford them, says CNIB’s Pickering.

Plotkin, whose clinic serves people from across Canada, says that if a client can’t afford a needed device, “We can work with service clubs to determine how much help is available. We also have a small fund of our own which we can access in such cases.”

CNIB receives corporate donations designed to fund equipment for those with visual impairments, notes Dean Yano, Western Canada sales representative for HumanWare, a Quebec-based leader in assistive technologies for the blind and visually impaired.

“We also entertain loaners and equipment trials, depending on the client’s location,” he says. “If they’re nearby, we may be able to demo a device for them and let them try it out before they buy it.”

Assistive Devices for the Visually Impaired

Specialized technology products make living with vision loss much easier, whether at home, work or school. And the range of innovative new products continues to expand as companies seek ways to improve the quality of life of people with low vision.

Eschenbach Optik recently introduced the first AMOLED (active matrix organic light-emitting diode) screen in a portable video magnifier, says National Sales Manager Ryan Heeney. The Mobilux Digital offers the highest contrast image, fastest image processing speed and best resolution of any video magnifier, he says. It also processes display images 1,000 times faster than LCD magnifiers. No “ghosting”, “smearing” or fading images appear as the camera moves along a page or object.

“These devices provide higher resolution and a faster refresh rate, plus options including multiple magnification settings and image storage. Glare and contrast loss are issues for all patients with low vision; options here are contrast-enhancing filters that protect the user from glare but still provide contrast enhancement so they can distinguish the foreground from the background.”

Scanner/reader devices that scan a hard copy document and read it aloud to the user are another popular innovation, says Dean Yano, sales representative for Quebec-based HumanWare. With some versions, the document can also be displayed on a monitor, which scrolls through it automatically.

“The user can control volume, speed and the play/pause functions of the audio, as well as magnification and colour backgrounds with the monitor option,” says Yano. HumanWare sells several models, including the Intel Reader, Eye-Pal Solo, and Zoom-Ex.

The most widely used products for low vision patients are low-tech devices that offer magnification, including hand-held and stand magnifiers, spectacle magnifiers and telescopes. Other assistive devices commonly used by people with vision loss include:

• Computer screen readers, screen magnifiers, braille displays and voice input software that operates in conjunction with graphical desktop browsers and other programs;

• Stand-alone products, including personal digital assistants (PDAs), note takers and electronic book players;

• Video magnifiers (CCTVs) that magnify printed material and can reverse text and background colours for greater ease of reading. Settings can be customized to suit the user’s needs so reading becomes easier; and

• DAISY (Digital Accessible Information System) is the international digital talking book standard. DAISY books enable people who are blind, have low vision or are unable to read standard print to browse through a book in much the same way as a sighted reader.

DAISY books can be read on a portable player, known as a digital playback device, or on a computer with DAISY software. These players are easy to use, prompting the user and describing the function of each button so there is no need to remember a lot of instructions.

Le Groupe Optique Plus Goes Eclectic

Le Groupe Optique Plus Goes Eclectic

Le Groupe Optique Plus has introduced two new lines, Tulipe Noire and De Stijl. Worlds apart in style, these two collections are both designed and manufactured by the Dutch company, Eurovisie.

Tulipe Noire eyewear, part of the You’s series, is distinguished by a trendy design and a perfect finish. The eight models for women, currently being offered by the distributor in four colours, are specifically designed for those looking for recognition of their personal identity – stylish, distinctive and high quality.

Floral prints are at the base of the Tulipe Noire ladies’ collection. The temples feature elegant, stylised floral motifs which add that chic look to them. The styles and motifs are available in a balanced range of neutral colours, set against a black or other deep colour background.

On the other hand, the De Stijl collection, named after a Dutch movement of the ‘20s, follows in the footsteps of the artists that founded this organization. Each model’s basic design is a search for harmony through the use of lines and right angles and for the balance between the colours underlining the composition. The various elements are combined into an architectural entity without the use of screws or welding on the hinges, which is the real masterpiece within each frame.

All metal components used in De Stijl frames are manufactured from stainless steel. The highly durable, non-allergenic material provides a very comfortable wear. Ion Plating technology has been used to create the majority of the colour tones. Originating in the aviation industry, this technology ensures an extremely durable coloured layer. Le Groupe Optique Plus offers 11 models for men, each one in a choice of four different colours.