Getting ANSI: How American Tolerance Standards Influence Prescription Lens Quality in Canada

By Brian P. Dunleavy

Making prescription eyewear that effectively meets the vision needs of clients involves a mixture of art and science. The issue of refractive power tolerance is definitely part of the science. And, like most such issues, there are multiple schools of thought with regard to tolerances, creating some confusion for optical staff and laboratories across Canada.

“Tolerance charts vary, depending on the store,” notes Madelaine Petrin, R.O., B.Sc., professor of opticianry at Seneca College in Toronto. “But for labs, it would be convenient if we all agreed to use one set.”

Indeed, opticians and optometrists use tolerance standards to assess the quality of prescription lenses delivered by their labs. If the axis, cylinder and sphere powers on the lenses are within tolerance – or the “wiggle room” lens processors have in grinding powers before the visual acuity of the lens is adversely affected – then they are distributed to the patient; if not, they are sent back to the labs as “redos ” at the labs’ expense. At present, because Canada does not have a national tolerance standard, optical professionals have developed their own standards, with most based on the specifications established by the U.S. American National Standards Institute’s (ANSI) Z80 standard. But, as some lab executives point out, if all optical shops and optometry practices use different tolerance standards – “Most [charts] tend to be more stringent than ANSI, not less,” Petrin says – then labs have to constantly refine their own standards to keep costly “redos” to a minimum.

For example, some eyecare professionals use the ANSI standard for sphere tolerance (for example (+/- 0.13D), while others insist on tolerances within ranges more stringent than ANSI (say, +/- 0.06D). In and of itself, this is fine; however, problems arise when optical shops or optometry practices adopt more stringent standards without telling their labs. Of course, ideally there would be zero prism errors in all lenses processed, but this is not only unrealistic, it’s arguably impossible as individual focimeters read lenses differently.

Interestingly, rather than reinventing the wheel and developing a “Canadian standard”, some professional groups, including the National Association of Canadian Optician Regulators (NACOR), have either formally or informally endorsed the use of the ANSI Z80 guidelines; however, the industry as a whole has yet to adopt them universally. It has taken some time for that to happen in the U.S. as well. Though the Z80 standard was originally developed in the 1950s (it has been revised several times since, most recently in 2010), industry observers south of the border say that it was largely ignored until the 1990s, when Lenscrafters developed its own, more stringent guidelines based on it. Only then did lens manufacturers wanting to do business with the powerful chain begin adhering to the standard; independent opticians and optometrists in the U.S. who work with wholesale labs have since benefitted as well because they, too, receive higher-quality eyewear as a result.

John Young, founder and CEO of COLTS Laboratories, an eyewear product testing facility in the U.S., notes that years ago he and his staff often found lenses that didn’t meet ANSI tolerance standards in their testing work; now, that’s changed. “We used to mark them with red print on our audit sheets,” he explains. “But in the past three years, we’ve had very little red print.”

Young believes Canada will eventually reach this point as well, if the industry here continues to use the ANSI guidelines. Eyecare labs must also work closely with their lens-processing labs to develop specifications (either ANSI or more stringent guidelines based on ANSI) that work for their respective businesses.

Petrin agrees. “I make sure my students know the ANSI standards by rote,” she says, “but I also explain what patients might be able to tolerate. Yes, they’ll have to reject some orders [from labs] but they also need to know when not to reject them.”

And that’s music to the ears of lab executives across the country.

The Future Keeps Us Focused: Tura Stays on Track with Fashion

By Paddy Kamen

What does Tura, one of the oldest and most successful eyewear companies in North America, take for granted? Absolutely nothing!

You might be forgiven for thinking that Tura could rest on its laurels, given an incredible 75 years of innovation. After all, it was Tura’s marketing genius and founder, Monroe Levoy, who recognized way back in 1938 that women would love eyewear if it were viewed as a fashion accessory. Levoy proceeded to make it so, introducing the first bright colours to spectacle frames: Cherry Red, Powder Blue and “Turalite” (silver). Levoy also innovated the first aluminum metal die-cast frame in the industry in 1947 (face-formed, curved to fit any corrective lens, fully adjustable and virtually unbreakable) and initiated the trend to ornamentation on frame fronts and temples.

As fashion frame originators, Tura’s philosophy was espoused thus: “the more becoming eyeglasses are, the more apt women are to follow faithfully the prescription of their use.” Helping women to see that eyewear is one part of their overall ‘look’, Tura created a wardrobe of glasses to match the changing colour schemes of fashion. Who did they turn to for advice on this? None other than Vogue magazine! They even provided eyecare retailers with a scarf draping kit based on a colour wheel to help women select frames that complemented their personal colour profile. Known as ‘Matched to Fashion’, this campaign took place in 1949. An ad that was part of this campaign read: “Because women who wear glasses realize that there is no such thing as inconspicuous glasses, spectacle frames assume their logical place as a fashion accessory.”

Tura, the frame company, was born out of “The House of Levoy,” Monroe Levoy’s dispensary on Madison Avenue inNew York City. The name Tura was derived from the company product, the “Futura Mirror.”

A recent innovation from Tura is the Lotus hinge, first introduced in 1994. The hinge design didn’t require a screw to help keep frames in alignment. Today, in celebration of Tura’s 75th anniversary, the original Lotus hinge has been retooled with the latest technology to create the perfect marriage of form and function. Benefits of this superior hinge include frames that stay adjusted and the reduced likelihood of the hinge breaking or failing. In fact, the re-mastered Tura Lotus collection will be showcased in a luxury display case at the Tura booth at Vision Expo East inNew York City in March 2013.

“Our approach in reinventing this collection was to create frames that were feminine and light, like fine jewelry,” says Jennifer Coppel, vice president of brand management. “Each contour of every style has a reason to be – there is nothing extraneous. The result is an on-trend collection with sleek, modern, easy-to-wear silhouettes.”

While the new styles feature a minimalist and delicate design aesthetic, the Lotus collection still adheres to Tura’s impeccable craftsmanship and unparalleled American style. Designed in theU.S., Lotus frames are made of titanium in a Japanese factory renowned for its high standards and technical expertise. Titanium construction is strong, lightweight, durable, corrosion-resistant and nickel-free. This collection combines the best of modern technology with old-world craftsmanship. Each frame is machined for precision, hand polished and assembled, and rigorously inspected for quality.

This 75th anniversary year also sees new frame styles added to the Mosaic Collection, the bold and brilliant geometric group. With distinctive jewelry-inspired details, this artsy and expressive collection includes both ophthalmic and sunwear styles for women and men in both acetate and metal. The collection is supported by a comprehensive marketing campaign that includes a revamped logo and brand colours. In-store POP emphasizing Tura’s reputation for fashion and quality make it easy for independent eyecare professionals to bring this brand alive for consumers.

A large part of Tura’s ongoing success is due to its commitment to supporting clients. “We never assume that our customer service can’t be improved,” explains Vice President of Marketing Audrey Pavia. “We hold training sessions with our customer service representatives every two weeks to review best practices and to strategize about ways to improve service. We know our customers are busy and don’t have much time to wait or to problem solve. Therefore, at Tura our automated phone and computer systems are completely integrated. When an account calls, our service staff has instant access on their monitors to all the pertinent client information. Rolling frame boards are handy so staff can access all frames without having to leave their desks for more than a few seconds. These simple innovations help them quickly answer all customer questions.”

All Tura staff, both in-office and external sales, participate in the company’s internal intranet site, which provides a continual flow of new brand, product and marketing information. SaysPavia, “This site is a fantastic communication tool and provides very quick access to training information and sales tools. It keeps staff motivated and well-informed.”

Tura employs more than 200 people inNorth Americaand is based in Great Neck,New York. They hold a portfolio of brands that include Bogner, crush, Geoffrey Beene, Lulu Guinness, oio, Ted Baker, TITANflex and Tura.

“The Tura brand continues to be the backbone of the company,” explains Coppel. “It adds the finishing touch with eyewear that is beautiful, that accents your face, complements your clothing and enhances your individual style.”

Ted Baker is also a very strong brand for Tura. Coppel notes: “Ted Baker designs are inspired by Ted’s travels around the world. He tries to bring out the personality of the eyewear through shape and detail, resulting in a contemporary, playful and cosmopolitan collection that appeals to consumers. From subtle details to quirky point of sale pieces, everything that bears the Ted Baker name always offers absolute quality and that little bit more.”

As Tura celebrates its 75th anniversary there is so much to be proud of, and yet there is no sense at all of musty satisfaction with the past. Instead, we see a dynamic company still leading the way with fashion-forward, high-quality eyewear.

Paviasays it all: “Although Tura has such a legacy to lean on, we continue to progress and listen to our accounts, answer their needs and support them in today’s ever-changing market. We keep looking forward. Our heritage makes us proud, but the future keeps us focused.”

Munich Optical Show Garners Rave Reviews

By Paddy Kamen

The Munich-based international optics show – opti – that was once a relatively minor global player is fast becoming the trade show to top. In a world of fierce competition, this is no mean feat.

How have they done it?

For one thing, opti’s organizers, GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH, simply know how to run an excellent show, and this has as much to do with pleasing exhibitors as it does with impressing visitors. This firm has been running the show since 2008, and those years have seen steady growth, which is all the more remarkable in a time of great economic uncertainty.

The show presents the entire spectrum of optics ranging from frames, ophthalmic lenses, contact lenses and low-vision products to shop set-up, technical equipment and devices. There are many product premieres at opti, from international market leaders and start-ups alike.

Joseph Tallier, vice-president of global sales for OGI Eyewear, attended opti from January 25 to 27.

“I’ve been exhibiting at opti for three years now and each year it becomes more international. I had appointments set up with buyers from Brazil, Italy, the Middle East and South Korea. I did great business and just love the exuberance of the show.”

How does opti compare to other shows? Tallier sees it this way: “The quality of the organization and service at this show is incredible. If you just make one overture to a staff person for help, they handle whatever it is you need and they do so happily. They make it easy for exhibitors to focus on our job, which is helping visitors to understand our brand.”

Clearly visitors love the show too, and in ever-increasing numbers. This year the show saw 23,200 visitors from 70 countries. They come to discover the exhibitors’ latest products and trends, and soak up the great atmosphere. Indeed, over 90 per cent of respondents to the visitor survey rated the show as ‘good to very good.’

“opti has established itself as the platform for launching new products at the beginning of the year,” explained Dieter Dohr, CEO and president of GHM. “The timing of opti is perfect for this.”

Tallier agrees. “Holding opti in January is perfect. And the venue is excellent as well. The show is laid out for easy walking, and I’m not alone in loving the fact that the exhibition hall is just a 15-minute drive from the heart of old Munich. It is a beautiful old city and there’s lots to do at night.”

The organization of the show extends beyond the hall itself to include even the thoroughfares from the airport. Tallier explains, “I was feeling ill when I arrived and I expected to have a hassle explaining where I was headed to a taxi driver who didn’t speak English. But I readily noticed that there were signs up all over the place directing drivers to the opti show. It was a breeze to get there.”

It seems everyone involved was thrilled with the results of opti 2013. The reaction from Josef May, Chairman of SPECTARIS, the German Hightech Industry Association, was also very positive: “Once again, it was really great! The event was fully booked, with aisles and stands full of people and incoming orders, so the exhibitors were very happy. Instead of a downturn, the optics industry looks set to enjoy fresh impetus again this year,” he said.

Kudos to opti! Next year’s show will be held January 10 to 14, 2014. You’ll want to be there, even if just to see a show that ‘runs like a Swiss clock’, says Tallier.

Trendy

mod. Trendy 2242

With an ultra-feminine shape and a fresh and attractive appearance, Boz unveils their new fashionable creation – Trendy.

The fine metal is worked by photoengraving and then tinted with two colours before being fused with multicoloured patterned acetate. Trendy combines unusual materials, forms and perfectly mastered patterns.

The collection is distributed by J.F.Rey Eyewear Canada.

Dutz Launches a Collection for Kidz

mod. DK 106

The Dutch brand Dutz, well known in Canada for its frames in flat metal and acetate, in multiple lively colours and original forms, took advantage of Silmo last October, to launch a collection of frames for children, Dutz Kidz.

This collection distributed by Audace Lunettes consists of about 10 models in flat, hypoallergenic metal, with temples featuring hinges flex. In this new kids’ line we find the style that made Dutz frames successful, including both plain and original colours. The size of the models ranges from 40 to 45, and temple tips allow a good adjustment, as well as a good fit on children’s faces. Frames come with a fabric case and a two-year warranty against manufacturing defects.

There’s no doubt that this original line will be enjoyed by children, while their parents will appreciate their excellent value.

A Thorough Revamping for Cashoptical.com

Cashoptical.com is happy to announce the collaboration with Opal Group France, the Ponts d’Or gold winner in the POS Material category and silver winner in the Children category. This new association allows Cashoptical.com to offer a wider range and meet the needs of the company’s clients. 

Five new collections are introduced: Pola, Lapö, Owlet, Owlet Plus and Proximo, as well as new Rx lab edging and mounting services for frames, lenses and treatments.

Cashoptical.com’s coolaboration with Opal Group France has allowed them to offer online purchasing exclusive for eyecare professionals who register on the site. Professionals may order per unit or in quantity.

Blanchard Laboratories Unveils Onefit Lenses

Blanchard Laboratories introduces Onefit Series lenses as the new standard for GP and soft lens wearers. This line of mini scleral lenses is designed to completely vault the irregular or ectatic cornea, as well as normal prolate cornea with astigmatism. Onefit lenses boast the crisp visual acuity and high DK of a GP lens, and the comfort previously only available in a soft lens.

“Our goal was a large-diameter RGP lens that is easy to fit and as comfortable as a soft lens. It had to be better than my own soft lenses before we would introduce it,” says Jean Blanchard, president of Blanchard Laboratories. “I wear these lenses comfortably during all of my waking hours.”

The Onefit Cone is designed to accommodate highly irregular corneas such as keratoconus (Oval, Nipple) and ectasias. Available in diameters ranging from 13.7 mm to 14.6 mm, the lens always centers well on the eye and provides the patient with visual clarity and stability never before possible with smaller GP lenses.

The Onefit P+A is designed to vault over corneas with normal prolate profile or astigmatism. Available in diameters of 13.8 mm up to 14.9 mm, the lens rivals the comfort of a soft lens and is ideal for those who cannot adapt to, or have developed an intolerance to smaller GP lenses or soft toric lenses.

A simple three-step, inside-out fitting approach, combined with a 14-lens trial set, makes Onefit the easiest mini scleral lens to fit and trouble shoot.

Candie’s Eyewear: New Prescription-Ready Sunglass Collection

mods. Isabel and Adison

Viva International Group introduces a new sun line to its Candie’s ® Eyewear collection this spring. The 12 new prescription-ready sunglass styles are fun and fashionable, perfect for the trendy lifestyle of today’s Candie’s girl. Bold silhouettes, including wayfarers, aviators and glamorous ovals are offered in colourful combinations with chic temple treatments, such as animal prints, heart designs and floral patterns.

“We’re excited about the introduction of prescription-ready sunglasses to the Candie’s Eyewear collection,” said Viva’s VP of Merchandising for Domestic Brands Timm Parker. “The collection takes its direction from the fun and flirty design themes found in the Candie’s clothing and accessories collection and translates them into a variety of quality sunglass options for today’s Candie’s girl.”

Enticing animal prints, also found in the brand’s extensive accessories collection, bring inspiration to the new sunglasses, including key styles COS Adison and COS Isabel.Templesdetailed with a vibrantly coloured animal print design compliment the fun, wayfarer-inspired styling of COS Adison with a pop of colour, including orange, green and yellow. A metal plaque featuring the Candie’s logo completes the look of this sporty style.

The flat metal styling of aviator-style COS Isabel presents handmade acetate temples adorned with an animal pattern in neutral tones of gold, plum and gunmetal.

The dramatic round shape of style COS Dani is offered in rich handmade acetate and features a colour-filled Candie’s logo etched onto each temple. Gradient lenses accentuate the translucent colour finishes available in black, plum and brown.

Merchandising materials include 3-piece, 12-piece and 24-piece displays, mirrors, logo plaques and counter cards, and banners featuring the current campaign image, as well as a window display new for 2013.

Optika Unveils Their Season’s Hottest Trend

mod. Mizyake 3553

Mizyake Eyewear, known for young energetic funky eyewear, is excited about their 2013 Rx-able sunglass collection. Designed in Japan, Mizyake is featuring 12 new models for men and women with UVA and UVB protecting lenses. They can also be fitted for Rx-able lenses.

Sunglasses with vintage shapes for ladies feature acetate with metal inserts on the bridge, as demonstrated by model 3553. Colours play with rich tortoises, a blend of forest greens, and black acetates with a splash of vibrant fuchsia.

Classic Aviator styles for men, such as model 3555, feature two-tone silver on black colour combinations and bold shapes.

The Mizyake line is distribute in Canada by Optika Eyewear.

Ogi Eyewear Unveils Innovative Collection Evo – Tec

mod. 4801 yellow

Ogi Eyewear launches Evo – Tec, a new sophisticated eyewear collection for the modern male. Ogi believes this revolutionary new product is the future for men’s eyewear, typically the most overlooked category in the market place. Constructed of exceptionally lightweight new material (Ultem), these Evo-Tec designs merge the soft appearance of plastic with the thickness and lightweight aspects of titanium.

“This innovative material offers the customer a truly unique futuristic eyewear experience,” says Ogi Vice-President of Global Sales Joe Tallier. “The fit and comfort, along with the fine craftsmanship you’ve come to expect from Ogi, is like nothing you’ve ever experienced.”

The Evo –Tec collection debuts in five styles each available in four different colour combinations.

Soft lines and smooth curves give the 4801’s classic model a sleek persona. Designed with revolutionary Ultem material, the rectangle shape frame offers impeccable comfort and durability, while never sacrificing style. A matte finish with colour combinations such as tortoise, green demi and blue demi, this Evo –Tec design presents a modern sophistication.

“Ogi feels men are consistently neglected in the marketplace. In 2013, we will be focusing on men’s eyewear beginning with the Evo – Tec collection. We believe the modern man will embrace this new lightweight revolutionary material, and find it to be a great addition to his wardrobe,” adds Joe Tallier.