“Luxury is what you don’t see.” – Coco Chanel

There’s more to luxury eyewear than jewels, precious metals and big price tags. Luxury is as much a state of mind as anything tangible.

“Luxury is focused at an abstract level on people’s aspirations and dreams,” says Margaret Osborne, professor in the School of Marketing at Seneca College. “Consumers look to luxury brands to fulfill their social and belonging needs. They want to project an image of themselves to the outside world, reward themselves for their achievements and earn recognition from their peers.”

For this reason, the retailer’s pitch must focus on the item’s intangible benefits, says Osborne. “It’s important to meet the consumer’s self-image with the concept or personality of the brand.”

As customers identify their luxury brand preferences they are sending important signals about their values to sales personnel, she notes. “For example, the Dolce and Gabbana brand personality can be described as innovative, extravagant, stylish and trendsetting. A customer stating a preference for this brand is signalling that she aspires to this “look and feel” in her eyewear, even if her final choice is a different one.”

Another important factor is availability, says Osborne, adding that the most important aspect of a luxury image is exclusivity. “The more available a luxury brand is, the less desirable it becomes.”

Not that tangibles are unimportant. Price is certainly a consideration — some people continue to associate luxury with high cost — but Sue Randhawa, owner of The Optical Boutique in Vancouver puts greater emphasis on outstanding quality and craftsmanship when making buying decisions. “Things like high-end materials, and how and where the product is made become very important.”

When a product resonates with a client, they buy it, she says, “not just because of its looks but they fall in love with the story. That’s why product knowledge is so important in our industry. In some cases, there are years of family history to talk about.”

She cites Oliver Goldsmith, whose story goes back to 1926. “We use this information to sell the product. Clients feel they’re buying a piece of history and this adds to their overall experience.”

That experience begins when a client walks into the store.

Your product and service offering must be carefully crafted to support the “white glove” treatment luxury consumers expect, says Osborne.

“From valet parking to personalized greetings to music to sales staff interaction, your supporting environment needs to be perfect. Aspirational point-of-sale material is critical. No courier boxes, plastic lab trays, unpolished mirrors… all supporting merchandising activities should take place out of sight.”

Collections must have presence, so you need to have many different colours and shapes on hand, says Randhawa. “That requires an investment. For example, I have 100 pieces each of Theo and Anne et Valentin.”

Staff training is critical so they can talk about how the frames are made, lens technology and style news, such as who is wearing what in Hollywood, she adds.

“Our approach is always the same – we ask a lot of “lifestyle” questions, discuss their current dissatisfactions and areas they want to address. This usually leads to a frank discussion about wants, needs and budgets.”

Ultimately, the goal is to create a unique experience that will keep customers coming back. “It’s not a transaction — you want to create a relationship with the client. After that, the bond is solid. The feeling I give them is so special that they remember it and they won’t want to go anywhere else.”

Here is a look at the latest luxury offerings from some of the world’s top eyewear companies.

ic! berlin

ic! berlin’s new silk collection marries technical innovation with avant-garde design, says Katie Murphy, director of marketing and communications. “Our eyewear is made for people who appreciate technology and a high-quality product that doesn’t forego fashion.”

The 10-piece, stainless steel collection features limited-edition, handcrafted sunglasses with innovative new colour treatments. ic! berlin’s revolutionary screwless hinge is just 3.5 mm across and uses a patented forked hook to secure the temple to the front. This discreet, elegant feature creates a streamlined transition from front to temple, reflecting the company’s design philosophy: naked and pure.

mod: Bise

“Bise”, a cat’s eye style for women, features laqueur on the upper half in pink, red or black, with Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) on the bottom.

High-end materials are key to the exclusivity of ic! berlin frames, notes Murphy. Light, durable and flexible, all frames are designed, hand made and distributed from the company’s Berlin, Germany facilities.

Marcolin Eyewear

Classic and modern, discreet, clean and linear: these qualities define the new Tom Ford spring/summer eyewear collection from Marcolin.

The collection represents pure luxury, with handcrafted materials, including natural cotton Italian-made acetates. Combinations of metal and acetate give the vintage-inspired models a modern touch, while refined, innovative materials result in lighter, more comfortable styles.

The collection appeals to men over 30 and women 25+ who appreciate an artisanal approach to eyewear and understand the value of craftsmanship, along with high fashion and cutting-edge design, says Lada Silva, president of Marca Eyewear Group, Marcolin’s Canadian partner.

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Integrating the characteristics of the iconic Tom Ford ‘T’ into the temples and using a 75-step process by hand, help to distinguish the brand. Designer Tom Ford is also an important part of the design process, a commitment that appeals to customers who want a premium brand.

Match Eyewear

The Judith Leiber brand has redefined the accessory category through its cutting-edge fashion and timeless style. The eponymous eyewear collection from Match Eyewear consists of 26 optical styles and eight sun styles, handcrafted in the finest Mazzucchelli acetate, which provides superior-quality optical plastics.

From amethyst to sapphire crystals, each frame is a dazzling sculptural work of art. Adorned with Swarovski crystals made from the purest raw materials, the frames feature unique Italian acetate colorations, such as Bordeaux, Graphite, Orchid and Denim Blue.

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mod: JL 3028

The collection’s latest additions take a new design direction for Millennials, using metal embellishments. The JL 3030 is an acetate front sun style with mottled metal design elements on each side of the frame and temples. Keeping with the sleek metal theme, optical style JL 3028 features a multi-dimensional metal globe detail on the temples.

Perfect Optical

A harmonious blend of technology and art, design and inspiration, the Premium Collection from LineArt CHARMANT, available from Perfect Optical, is aimed at women aged 50+. “They’re not necessarily drawn to brands,” says Perfect Optical President Adrian Maas. “They’re interested in the article itself and appreciate the craftsmanship, materials and design that sets LineArt apart.”

LineArt uses a patented laser welding process called braising to create a laser weld at the juncture of two pieces of metal; this helps to ensure the frame’s strength. All frame temples are made of Excellence Titan, a titanium alloy that retains titanium’s strength and durability, yet is hypoallergenic and highly flexible with superb memory function.

Vivace, the latest design line in the LineArt CHARMANT collection, is a contemporary interpretation of elegant understatement, characterized by its sleek temple design: two fine, parallel lines produce a smooth, streamlined look.

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Vivace models project feminine flair and a touch of luxury and are very comfortable to wear. The colourful upper rim of XL2113 VIVACE forms the striking highlight of the full-rim frame, made of the finest titanium. All colour versions have gold-plated temples.

Prisme Optical

The French-made Charriol collection from Prisme Optical Group makes a bold statement about those who wear it, says Prisme President Richard Stortini. “These are people for whom brand is important. Charriol frames are easily identifiable, thanks to the «C» logo engraved on the outside of each tip. They’re noticeable, not discreet, and definitely not for everyone.”

Designed for people 50+, particularly wealthy men who want to celebrate their success, the eyewear is primarily composed of black acetate with gold or silver details on the side.

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Style PC7501 C3 is a men’s frame in black acetate, with the signature Charriol cable in monel. PC71002 C1 is a luxurious style for elegant women in Tortoise. Made from acetate and monel, it features Swarovski crystals adorned by hand.

Selective in its distribution, Charriol offers independent opticians an alternative to more widely available luxury brands. All Charriol frames are identified by an individual serial number and come with a worldwide guaranty card.

Spectacle Eyeworks

Two stunning new stainless steel styles, featuring 3D-inspired patterns and multi-dimensional effects, come to us from Spectacle Eyeworks. These elegantly edgy designs exude a refined boldness that is sure to intrigue even the most discerning audience, says Director and Chief Designer Mehran Baghaie.

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“I wanted to create something that would intertwine the strength of geometric lines and angles with multi-faceted, slightly textured patterns and contouring,” said Baghaie. The result: Khai and Karl, two understated, yet striking creations that give life to the designer’s vision.

These German-made frames feature diverse dimensions, tactile elements, and rich, earthy hues. Each is available in seven colour options, including a burgundy jewel tone and metallic pewter. All frames include a signature case and two-year warranty.

WestGroupe

New to the luxury eyewear segment, WestGroupe is proud to offer the ZEISS Eyewear collection. Featuring 14 optical styles (seven men’s, four women’s and three unisex) for those with a sophisticated eyewear palate, the collection maintains the high quality and integrity of the ZEISS brand.

The materials of choice are titanium and TX5, a state-of-the-art material for premium plastic frames. They create ultra-light frames, combined with great strength and transparency.

Rich, saturated colours range from classic neutrals to high-fashion shades, coupled with gold and silver accents for a touch of opulence. Custom-integrated spring hinges, titanium temple tip caps, and titanium nose pads enhance the brand’s luxury appeal.

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For women, ZS-10007 features a modified square shape that is easy-to-wear in TX5 material. Titanium double-wire-style temples create an airy, lightweight look and are finished with titanium inlays at the end piece.

ZS-20004 is a men’s style featuring a tonal gradient TX5 front with matte finish. A titanium inlay connects the end piece and temples for a signature design detail. An integrated spring hinge provides additional comfort.

Sàfilo

Glamorous, enchanted, classic: that’s Jimmy Choo, the women’s luxury fashion eyewear brand from Sàfilo.

The 10-piece SS18 ophthalmic collection offers an unparalleled level of product distinction, using exotic materials, luxurious detailing and Swarovski crystals.

Styles are offered in metal, with a star pattern, acetate (with and without glitter) and combination frames. A new material used in the collection is an exclusive, ultra-fine Swarovski crystal embellishment.

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The highlight of this season’s collection is a rounded aviator shape (Jimmy Choo JC 200) in a thin, lightweight metal construction with star cutout detailing along the side of the temples for a sophisticated, playful look.

mod: Priya

There are 11 new sunglass styles in the SS18 collection, some of which feature ultra-fine Swarovski crystal embellishment. The ‘Priya’ sunglasse feature a signature glitter finish on the temples. Shiny metals and sleek acetates are also used on certain styles.

Jimmy Choo eyewear is designed for women 25+, who are passionate about fashion and appreciate timeless and iconic luxury accessories with exceptional Italian craftsmanship.

Marchon Eyewear

Classic styles married to French allure define the Longchamp collection from Marchon. Wearable and fashionable with easy styling, the collection’s 13 optical and 12 sun styles are perfect for the active woman 30+.

The collection includes a large offering of metal frames, plus thin-profile acetates with iconic details and rich, eye-catching colours. Gold elements at the hinges, leather detailing in the temples and gold horse emblems on every acetate frame exude luxury.

The collection is available in a wide range of shades and bright colour combinations. A finished marble effect on select frames creates an elevated look and feel.

From the Roseau collection, the LO617S features a feminine cat-eye frame made of acetate, with beautiful marble-effect colours, highlighted by gold metal temples and comfortable acetate tips. The Roseau collection utilizes a bamboo-style hinge, taken from the namesake line of bags. Chic and modern, the Roseau line adds a level of sophistication to the full collection.

By JoAnne Sommers

Exciting…fun…expensive…not up to snuff…marvelous: descriptors and opinions abound when it comes to 3D printing of eyewear frames.

3D printing is poised to significantly change the traditional manufacturing landscape. It could mean far less outsourcing to other countries as, over time, it becomes cheaper to print frames close to the place where they are ordered. And if 3D printing becomes the predominant method of manufacture, there will be no need for retailers to carry much, if any stock, because frames can be seen on the face via virtual 3D images and custom designed with software at the dispensary. 3D printing of frames has the advantage of generating almost no waste, in contrast to working with sheets of metal or acetate, which does the opposite. In addition, with 3D printing there is no need to over-manufacture products that may not sell because frames can be printed on a just-in-time basis. Finally, mass-customization becomes a reality with 3D printing, presumably making customers happier.

This feature brings you the best of what is currently available in Canada. We cover three manufacturers and four designers, all of whom use 3D printing for all or part of their work. In some cases, 3D printing results in far lower costs, such as when manufacturers use it for almost-instant prototyping; in other cases, the costs can go through the roof, as with 3D printing in titanium. One thing is for sure—this technology stands to shake up the industry big time.

Patrick Hoet, owner and designer for his eponymous brand, Hoet, based in Bruges, Belgium, took a pioneering position with 3D printed frames beginning in 2011. When he couldn’t attract partners he used his own assets to fund research and development, eventually launching the titanium 3D Hoet Couture collection at Silmo 2014. His daughter, Bieke, followed with a polymer 3D collection the following year.

Mod : DS9/ Patrick Hoet

Known for premium-quality artisanal frames, Hoet says that titanium printed in 3D is as good, if not better than traditionally manufactured frames. The polymer (nylon) used in the Cabrio collection has the advantage of being lighter and stronger than acetate, while also withstanding the ageing of acetate caused sweat and chemical agents. “However, colour possibilities and surface quality are somewhat diminished, for the time being,” he notes.

As a designer, Hoet says that 3D printing is “thrilling and challenging: a game changer. It’s like being a kid with his first Lego blocks—it’s not easy to master, but then it wouldn’t be as much fun if it was.”

Hoet helped to develop, and designed the initial frame collection for a 3D printing solution partnership between the Leuven, Belgium firm Materialise and HOYA Vision Care. The Yuniku project, which gives the eyecare professional the opportunity to create custom 3D frames made to order with personalized lenses, is not yet available in North America. He also created a 3D sports eyewear collection for Seiko called Seiko Xchanger.

His experience with 3D printing has made Hoet a big fan of the technology. “Waste is significantly reduced, while creating a product that is completely adapted to the needs of the customer. 3D printing will have a very positive impact on our ecological footprint. I have grandchildren and I want to leave them a better world.”

Sàfilo Group has developed a trend-setting collection, Oxydo Eyewear, in which frames of gold, ruthenium and palladium are enhanced by surrounding, lattice-like architectural structures created with 3D printers. Aesthetics and innovation meet in this striking collection of four styles, entirely Made in Italy. Multi-dimensional and quirky, Oxydo designs are wearable sculptures, one of which was created by New York-based artist Francis Bitonti.

mod: O.N 1.5 /OXYDO

Sàfilo also uses in-house 3D printing to develop prototypes for almost all of its brands. Vladimiro Baldin, chief product design and creation officer, says: “We currently use 3D printing on prototypes. Design ideas are embraced, refined or abandoned based on the look and feel of a prototype. To hasten and sharpen that crucial decision–making, we brought the 3D printing process in–house. Thanks to this, we can produce whole product prototypes in full colour, even with multiple materials, textures and gradients in as little as a few hours, speeding up the process of product development tremendously.”

Baldin sees a bright future for 3D printing: “There are huge opportunities, which consist in constantly refining the materials used, giving rise to products that are unique and tailor-made. And this is key in driving a future of customization. Currently, 3D printing systems are less cost-efficient than traditional mass production techniques, such as metal cutting or plastic injection moulding, but they are set to become better and cheaper over time, radically lowering barriers to entry for start-ups, no matter how small their production runs.”

Oliver Goldsmith, owner and designer of his eponymous London-based company, jumped on the 3D bandwagon with alacrity. “I was very excited by the fact that one can reproduce spectacles that would be impossible by traditional methods,” he says.

Goldsmith worked with Belgium-based 3D printing company, Materialise. “It took over a year to reach the point where I had some production samples in hand, as I had to educate them on the fine points of eyewear design, including six base toric curves for the lenses to fit correctly, getting the bridge fittings to be super-comfortable and joint angles according to the height of the temples being fitted to the fronts.”

Goldsmith and Materialise reproduced four models from Goldsmith’s father’s designs from the 1950s, including SATAN, which he enhanced with a finish that can only be done with 3D printing. The collection is for demonstration purposes only, however, as Goldsmith feels the perceived quality is not yet at the premium eyewear level. “While the actual quality is excellent, 3D printing cannot yet achieve the beautiful colours and colour combinations available in acetate. They are working on water transfer coatings, but this is still in the experimental stages. Also the look and feel in the hand are not the same.”

With the slogan, 20^th century design meets 21^st century production, Goldsmith’s first 3D collection will be used for window display and publicity purposes. He is hopeful, however, that he can bring a 3D collection to market as materials improve and prices come down.

Specsy is a Toronto-based 3D printing company with a turnkey printing solution for eyecare professionals. Founder and Product Development Manager, Milan Madhavji, a dental radiologist, has been manufacturing high-precision dental products since 2010 for his company, Canaray. He decided to turn his attention to the eyewear industry and launched Specsy in 2017.

Madhavji developed a solution that covers all the bases for ECPs. He explains: “They don’t need a web presence or even a computer or technical know-how to use the Specsy system. We provide what they need to give the customer a customized 3D printed frame, including an iPad equipped with the necessary software, 3D camera, brochures for customers, and a short training manual for opticians that includes information like how to set a lens in a 3D printed frame and how to adjust the shape. Engaging with a customer is as simple as taking her picture, bringing it up on the iPad and helping her select from a variety of frames, which are viewed on her virtual picture. Everything can be done in under five minutes.”

Specsy frames are currently available in a proprietary polymer material. All frames are printed at their Mississauga plant and the turnaround is approximately five days. The company will soon introduce a new printer to create metal frames, as well as software that will allow for increasingly sophisticated customization.

Specsy should be available Canada-wide by March, after which they will launch in the U.S. All manufacturing will remain in Canada, says Madhavji.

WestGroupe, always on the hunt for new processes and technologies that will enhance product and improve service, has been using 3D printing for prototype development since late 2016. Beverly Suliteanu, vice president, product development and creative director, says the learning curve was not without its hiccups: “It took us a bit of time initially to determine the proper setup parameters for metal frames due to the thinness of some of the parts. When separating the 3D frame from the support base, we initially had a lot of breakage by the nose pad guard arm and some of the thin filigree detailing. It was a process of trial and error to determine the proper setup to ensure the 3D prototypes were perfect.”

Due to the fact that there are limitations on the type of colouring and detailing one can have in a 3D printed frame, WestGroupe chose their printer based solely on the need for rapid prototyping. “Knowing that we wanted to better evaluate fit rather than design, we chose a printer that made economic sense for us,” says Suliteanu. “It has offered a great return on investment and most importantly, it has improved the products that we bring to market.”

Rapp Optical designer Shilo Rapp, trained as a goldsmith, loves 3D printing technology. “It has completely transformed the design and fabrication process and I regard it as an extremely useful tool for anyone creating anything, including eyewear,” he says.

Before getting into eyewear design, Rapp freelanced for many jewellers in Toronto, providing them with 3D models for complex custom orders. “While completely eliminating the wax carving and mold maker, these ‘virtual’, though geometrically accurate, computer files would go to 3D printers and eventually become a physical object, ready for metal casting, polish and diamond setting, which is pretty amazing,” he says.

As a designer, Rapp still prefers to transform raw materials manually. “To me it is more fun to use my hands. However, we will continue to employ both the modelling and 3D printing technologies in our design process, prototypes and mechanical fixture making. Our latest collection of combination frames, while not 3D printed, were conceived and designed using 3D modelling software. And, over the years we have utilized the technology in the same way a jeweller would: adding embellished components to our frames, though mostly for one-off pieces.

“As for 3D metal printing, there are some truly amazing examples in the eyewear sector, but for us the technology costs are still high, especially in our preferred material titanium, and would catapult our products into an astronomic price range. When it comes to 3D printed polymers, I have to say that the warmth, along with colour, texture and pattern available in acetate is still unmatched compared to 3D printed frames, though maybe not for long. Whatever happens, we will be ready!”

Colin Redmond, designer for and owner of Niloca Eyewear (see our designer profile of Redmond in the November/December 2017 issue), is an undisputed expert on 3D printing. Educated as an industrial designer, he also has a degree in polymer science. Redmond, based in Melbourne, Australia owned a 3D printing company—Plastic Ink—serving all manner of industries from 2005 – 2010.

Redmond says that while 3D printing technology is getting faster and more reliable, the polymer science is lagging in improving materials. The biggest issue is maintaining climate control, as fluctuations in temperature, humidity, air chemistry, air pressure and even light, affect the printing, forming and fusing of layers.

Producing consistently perfect A-Class surfaces is the big challenge for 3D printing. “The material deficits result in surface finishes that aren’t great. If there is a slight blemish on a large object like a car hood it wouldn’t really show, but on a frame it is obvious. There are tricks to hide the blemishes, but that’s accepting defeat and selling a lesser product. I wouldn’t want to do that to my clientele,” says Redmond.

Despite the challenges, Redmond will release three 3D printed collections in June 2018. Something to look forward to!

As you can see, 3D printing is not yet an unalloyed success or necessarily cost-effective. The promise is great, however, and given the esteem accorded to the professionals covered herein, you can be certain of the best of the best in their 3D printed creations.

By Paddy Kamen